The drive from the mines at Sao Domingos to Mértola takes us on the scenic N265 through the mountains of the Natural Park of Vale do Guadiana. Deserted and atmospheric, there’s a view at every turn in the road. From the reservoir on the outskirts of Sao Domingos to the many tributaries of the great River Guadiana.
But Mértola is breath-taking. The town perches way up over the Guadiana’s wide green waters, surrounded by mountains.
Kayakers paddle far below us, a castle tops the town. Islamic influenced white houses below it. We breathe in the heady sherbet scent of China berry blooms in the carpark.
Mértola was once the northern most port for Phoenician traders. Then the subsequent Romans shipped their precious metals from Alentejo’s mines to the coast on the Guadiana and developed the port.
The Islamic caliphate was the biggest influence here though and as the port declined in importance the great advantage was that the Islamic buildings remain unspoilt.
Even the simple cinema in white with bold blue edging is charming. The church, Igreja Matriz, nestling beside the castle, is special. Built as a mosque, its roofline is decorated with conical shapes, its door a Moorish arch.
Once a Roman temple, for a while Moslems and Christians shared this sacred space – a wonderful idea.
The inside is elegant, a white vaulted space with columns throughout. We’re the only ones there. The attendant points out the free under-croft museum where we study beautifully worked Islamic tiles.
The whole town is a free open air museum. Our next stop is the Casa Islâmica, a typical Islamic 12th Century house, centred around an open patio to collect rainwater. Its toilet linked to sewers that emptied outside the town walls. It’s mind-blowing to think it took Britain until the Victorian era to have such an integrated network of sewers.
The 13th Century castle is free too. Mértola is a generous place. We stand beside the bronze statue of a Moorish horseman and look out over the hills and valleys where he once rode.
The bar beside giant Islamic inspired geometric tiles demands a visit. I have to try the cheesecakes, an Alentejo speciality.
A light sponge, with a satisfying crust, sweetened curdled sheep’s cheese inside.
The N122 takes us south, across the Guadiana’s tributaries, which have carved deep gorges in the mountains. Crossing into the Algarve, Mediterranean pine forests cover the mountains and valleys.
There’s a sense of motor homing camaraderie for us roaming folk out here. A couple from Hampshire gave us a tip for the camper stop in Odeleite. It’s a hunter’s headquarters with a 360 degree view.
The view east is over mountains that run down to the Guadiana and the Spanish border; west there’s a reservoir nestled in the hills; and south there’s the lighthouse that blinks on and off from the salt pans of Castro Marim.
This is grand walking trail territory. We ramble out, with only birdsong for company, until we pass a homestead with fractious geese and a wolf-like dog who hurls himself at the fence, howling. Beating a retreat, we watch yet another amazing sunset, the flaming sky reflected in the waters of the reservoir below.
If you want to read my short story on the mines at Sao Domingos click on https://campervanbard.com/2023/05/30/flight-2/
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